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Top 7 Power Tools Every Woodworker Should Have

14.11.2007

Many beginners with an interest in woodworking are concerned that they'll have to buy a whole garage full of power tools to get started. That simply isn't the case. There are really only seven woodworking tools that I would recommend any beginning woodworker strive to have on hand from the start, and most are relatively inexpensive. However, with these seven tools, a beginner can take on a considerable number of projects. The following woodworking tools are listed in order of importance.

1. Circular Saw

Probably the most basic and versatile handheld power tool, in the hands of an experienced user, the circular saw can substitute for many other tools. While it takes some practice for most beginners to get comfortable with a circular saw, it quickly becomes a standby tool to handle a lot of cutting tasks very quickly. This should be the first of the power woodworking tools every beginning woodworker should consider.

A woodworker may choose to employ a circular saw for the same reasons that carpenters and building contractors have used them for years: they are powerful, portable, able to be set up to rip, crosscut and cut many non-wood materials. Here, we'll discuss the features you should look for when choosing a circular saw.

Bigger is Usually Better: Circular saws come in a few different sizes (based on the diameter of the saw blade), from 4" up to the most common size, 7-1/4". They also are typically rated by horsepower and/or RPMs of the saw blade.

When choosing a circular saw, a good rule of thumb is to buy one that has higher horsepower than other models of the same size. While a 1-HP 7-1/4" circular saw would probably be adequate, I like models that are at least two horsepower, as they are less likely to bind when under a load.

Safety Features: Circular Saws all have some basic safety features. Check to see that the saw you're considering has a safety switch, which must be held before the trigger can be depressed. There should also be a blade guard that moves easily when pushing the saw through wood, but springs back into place when the saw is away from the stock.

As with all tools, circular saws can be very dangerous if not used properly. Always read, understand and follow the safety instructions that come with the saw.

Additional Features: Better quality saws employ additional features such as an anti-locking clutch, which are flanges on either side of the blade that will allow the blade to slip if the blade binds on the stock, to protect the motor and drive mechanism. Another useful feature is a blade lock, which locks the drive spindle in place, making it easier to change the saw blade.

A.C. Power vs. Battery-Powered Saws: A recent advancement in circular saws is battery operated, 4-inch blade models. These are wonderful for small cutting operations, such as paneling or 1/4-inch plywood. They're lightweight and perfect when you need to reach high to make a cut. However, they're lacking in horsepower, and aren't much use for cutting more than a just a few 2x4s. I would definitely recommend having one of these battery-operated units on hand, but not until you have a number of other tools in your arsenal.

2. Power Drill

While cordless drills are very popular and convenient, corded drills are a bit more versatile and have the power to handle a number of drilling tasks. Additionally, corded drills are variable speed, which allows the user to drill anywhere from a very slow RPM all the way up to the drill's top speed. I'd recommend a quality 3/8-inch corded version for the beginner's first drill.

Walk through any home center's tool section and take a look at the drills. You'll find that almost the entire selection is made up of cordless models.
Obviously, cordless drills are very popular. Does that mean that corded power drills are antequated and you should only consider a cordless model? Absolutely not.

Why you should Consider a Corded Power Drill: While cordless power drills are very useful due in part to their portability, there are still tasks that still require more power than a cordless will provide. When drilling numerous holes of large diameter, particularly large paddle bits, a power drill should be your tool of choice. Performing such tasks that require considerable power would place tax a cordless drill's battery far more than recommended.

What to Look for in a Power Drill: When looking for a power drill, you'll find that most of the features mimic those found in cordless drills, namely a keyless chuck, reversible action and comfortable grip. However, while cordless drills have 2-speeds, power drills are typically variable speed, which can be very useful when you need to slow down the action. Additionally, some power drills incorporate a hammering action that, while not usable for woodworking, is handy for drilling through concrete, bricks or cinder blocks.

Drill Sizes: Power Drills typically come in two different sizes, 3/8-inch and 1/2-inch. This relates to the size of the chuck, and is indicative of the largest diameter bit that the drill will accommodate. In most cases, a 3/8-inch will suffice, but if you need to drill larger holes regularly or simply want more power, you might consider spending the additional money for a 1/2-inch model.

Safety While Operating Your Drill: While power drills aren't typically overloaded with safety features found on other power tools, that isn't to say you shouldn't exercise caution when using your power drill. Avoid wearing loose-fitting clothing or jewelry that could get caught up in the drill, unplug the drill when not in use, and always wear safety glasses. Additionally, be sure to read and follow the safety instructions found in the power drill's owner's manual.

Beyond these obvious safety precautions, there are a couple of additional safety suggestions that typically need to be mentioned in any discussion of power drills. A power drill should never be carried by the cord. This can cause the cord to dislodge from the casing and cause the power cable to possibly short out. Regularly check your cord for damage.

Hold on Tight: Second, when drilling with paddle bits, be sure to hold onto the drill with a bit firmer of a grip than you normally might, perhaps even holding with two hands. Because of their spade-like shape, paddle bits can occasionally bind against the stock, which will cause a considerable amount of torque back to the drill and subsequently, into your hand. It doesn't take more than one sprained wrist caused by a binding paddle bit to remind the operator to hold on tightly.

3. Jigsaw

The third tool for the beginner is the Jigsaw. A jigsaw allows the user to cut curved and circular patterns in stock. For versatility, choose an orbital-action, corded model that feels good in your hand and has an easy blade changing system.

When you need to make curved cuts, particularly on plywood, particle board or other relatively thin materials, few power tools are as handy as a jigsaw. While jigsaws have been maligned in the woodworking community for their propensity for their blades to bend, resulting in a cut that is not square, the risks are manageable. The possiblilty of an angled cut should not prevent you from adding one of these versatile, portable power tools to your workshop.

Features to Look For: Expensive jigsaws feature primarily two main features that account for their added cost: Orbital Action and Variable Speed. A standard-action jigsaw will move the jigsaw blade solely in an up-and-down motion, where an orbital-action jigsaw will angle the blade slightly forward and into the stock on the up-swing. The angle of the action can typically be adjusted for different types of materials, and can minimize wear on the saw blade. In many materials, this will make for a smoother cut.

Second, higher-end jigsaws will feature variable speeds. While this isn't always necessary when woodworking, it is especially useful if the jigsaw is used to cut metals. I do find it helpful, however, to be able to slow the blade speed down when making some rather intricate cuts, and feel that this feature is well worth the extra cost. If you get used to a variable-speed jigsaw and are forced to switch to a single-speed model, you'll miss the ability to adjust cutting speeds.

Additional Features: Some additional features to look for include a splinter control shoe, which is a small insert on the shoe of the jigsaw, that will help keep splintering to a minimum. You may also find a trigger lock, that will allow you to lock the jigsaw to a particular speed, and dust collection. I personally don't find the dust collection features of jigsaws of much use, but this is a matter of personal preference.

Depth of Cut: Most jigsaws will cut up to 2-inches of depth in woodworking applications, and approximately 1/2-inch on metal. Some jigsaws may feature a slightly deeper cut, but this isn't necessarily desirable on a jigsaw, as the deeper the action, the better the chance of the blade bending and breaking.

Because jigsaws blades have a tendency to bend, particularly on thicker stock, you may end up with an undesirable angled cut. To combat this, avoid cutting directly up to your cut line. Instead, it is adviseable to leave a bit of material next to the line (1/8" should be acceptable), and then use an oscillating drum sander to finish to the line. This will minimize any risk of ending up with less-than-desired results of your jigsaw cuts.

Corded vs. Cordless Jigsaws: Some manufacturers now offer cordless jigsaws, which are not nearly as powerful as their corded counterparts. This difference in power is definitely noticed, as cordless jigsaws don't cut nearly as quickly or handle as thick of stock as a corded model. As such, I'd avoid the cordless jigsaws.

Scroll Saws: Some units, called Scroll Saws, have a blade steering knob on top of the unit that allows the blade to turn while cutting (rather than turning the entire jigsaw). The problem with scroll saws is that pressure must be consistently kept behind the blade to keep the cut consistent, which can be difficult to control when the knob is turned to a sharp angle. As such, I find this to be a control that really isn't necessary, and even counter-productive in certain situations.

Conclusion: While extra features are certainly nice to have, I find that the only extra feature I really would want to invest in is the variable speed. I like the orbital action models, but don't find their added cost is typically necessary considering the investment. I'd rather put that extra money in the piggy bank and save for a band saw.

4.Random Orbital Sander

The fourth most important tool every beginner should buy is a random orbital sander. While palm sanders are less expensive and can use plain sandpaper, the random orbital version doesn't sand in patterns, but in a random motion. This will reduce any sanding marks that may appear on the stock. Be certain that your local woodworking supplier has sanding disks readily available in a number of grits to fit the model that you choose.

Advances in random orbital sanders over the past few years have made them the first sander you should consider when buying tools. Random orbital sanders can be set up to sand very quickly or very smoothly, with the added advantage that the random action will leave very few sanding marks on the finish.

Random Orbit: The feature that makes these sanders so unique is it's ability to sand in a completely random orbit, at speeds of up to 25,000 RPM. This completely random motion is what allows the sander to be able to leave a smooth finish without the sanding marks that palm sanders or belt sanders leave behind.

Sandpaper: Most random orbit sanders use sanding disks, typically in a 5-inch diameter affixed to the foam-rubber pad by hook & loop connections. These disks usually have eight holes in a circular pattern that line up with the dust collection holes in the pad. Sanding disks typically are available in a number of grits, from as low as 60 (coarse) to 220 (very fine).

Features: When buying a random orbit sander, there are a few features you should definitely have. First of all, dust collection is a must. Not only should the sander have a dust collection bag or filter that accompanies the unit, but it should be able to be connected to a dust collection or portable vacuum unit. This will make sanding much cleaner, and keep a lot of the dust that sanding creates to a minimum.

Also, the unit should have a sealed switch, to keep dust from getting into the switch which might cause the unit to be difficult to turn on or off.

The sander should be well balanced, and feel comfortable in your hand. If possible, turn the sander on and feel the vibrations. All sanders vibrate, but an excessively vibrating sander will cause considerable fatigue when working on large sanding projects.

Additional Features to Consider: Some higher-end random orbital sanders have variable speed controls. This is very useful when sanding some heat-sensitive materials where you might want to keep the heat lower. However, in woodworking applications, this has little practical use. Additionally, the orbital sander you choose should have a trigger lock, to lock the power on when in use.

Tips for Using a Random Orbital Sander: When working with a random orbital sander, keep the sander moving with the grain of the material. Leaving the sander in one place may cause an uneven finish. Also, take care to avoid rounding over the edges. If an eased edge is desired, use the sander to create a consistent but distinct small chamfer on the edge rather than rounding over the action from the face.

The Last Word: Be certain that, whichever random orbital sander you choose, your home center or building supplier carries sanding disks made to fit that particular model. The last thing you want to do is buy a sander that you love, only to find that sanding disks are nowhere to be found, or only available in a limited variety of grits.

5. Table Saw

Once you have the four aforementioned handheld power tools in your arsenal and you've had time to get comfortable with using them, its time to make your first (and most important) major tool purchase. The table saw is the heart and soul of every woodworking shop, so you want to buy the best tool you can comfortably afford. Take the time to learn which features you really want and the saw that best fits your budget and your needs.

The Table Saw is undoubtedly the most versatile machine in any shop, and should be the woodworker's first machine purchase. A good table saw becomes the centerpiece of the workshop, as the woodworker uses it to rip, square, miter, groove, shape and join pieces. A quality table saw will make completing nearly any woodworking project easier.

Table Saw Features: Every table saw should have a smooth, heavy work surface, a handle for raising and lowering the saw blade, a separate handle for adjusting the angle of the blade and connections for dust collection. The saw should have a strong motor that starts smoothly with little vibration and enough horsepower to make deep cuts through harder woods.

Safety Equipment: Every table saw should include a blade guard, to protect the woodworker from the exposed saw blade, and a large, easily accessible on/off switch. Most modern table saws utilize a large paddle switch that is pulled to turn on the saw, and pushed to turn it off. As such, when the woodworker's hands are busy steadying the material being cut, they can turn the saw off merely pressing their knee against the switch.

Rip Fence: Perhaps the most important feature to look for when researching which table saw to buy is the fence. A quality fence should be consistently parallel to the saw blade, and have fine tuning controls for when the fence needs adjustment. Most larger table saws have a Biesemeyer-style fence that is sturdy enough for ripping large stock very smoothly and is strong enough to let the woodworker securely clamp a sacrificial strip or featherboard to the fence.

Miter Gauge: Most table saws include a miter gauge for making angled crosscuts. Better quality saws will utilize a T-groove in the saw's table to help keep the miter gauge from coming out of the groove when in use. The miter gauge should glide smoothly without feeling loose and the be clearly marked for setting the proper cutting angle.

Options: A number of additional tools and jigs are available for the table saw, including tenoning jigs, stacked dado cutting sets, tapering jigs, panel-cutting jigs and sliding tables. These accessories all can be used to make the table saw the one machine tool that no workshop should be without.

6. Compound Miter Saw

After you have chosen your perfect table saw, the next major purchase is a compound miter saw. While not as expensive as a table saw, a compound miter saw is invaluable for cutting compound angles on the ends of stock. Once you get good on a miter saw, you'll find that your circular saw spends a little more time in the drawer than it used to.

When you need to make a precise, compound angle cut on the end of a piece of stock, few tools are as easy to use as a compound miter saw. A compound miter saw is basically nothing more than a circular saw placed on the end of a lever. The stock is placed on a flat base against a fence, and the saw is lowered into the stock. However, the ability to precisely angle and bevel the saw before cutting into the wood gives the compound miter saw its versatility.

The Miter Gauge: A compound miter saw can be angled up to 45-degrees either to the left or right. A quality compound miter saw should have a clearly marked miter gauge (which can be easily adjusted when necessary), and hard stops at 0, 15, 22.5, 30 and 45-degrees in both directions. The woodworker should also be able to lock the saw to any specific miter angle they need.

The Bevel: The "compound" part of the name comes from the saw's ability to tilt the saw in addition to setting the miter angle. Some saws will only bevel in one direction where others will bevel up to 45-degrees either left or right. This is especially helpful when the woodworker needs to cut two angles on the same cut. Installing crown molding, for instance, becomes a much simpler procedure when two precise angles can be cut at the same time.

Blade Size: Compound Miter Saws typically come in 8", 10" or 12" blade models. Most users find the 10" model perfectly adequate, as the 8" is just not large enough to cut angles on a 6" piece of stock on a 45-degree miter, nor tall enough to accommodate the stock on edge. Conversely, a 12" model may be a bit exorbitant price-wise. However, if you can afford a quality 12" model, you'll definitely appreciate the larger blade size.

Sliding Compound Miter Saws: Some miter saws have an additional slide feature where, after sinking the saw into the material, the blade may be pushed or pulled through the wood, allowing the woodworker to cut larger pieces of stock than would be otherwise possible. The additional motion gives this type of saw a radial-arm feel. While this is a very handy feature, it can add considerably to the price of the saw.

A Handy Option: Some companies sell a laser light that can be installed onto your miter saw that will show exactly where the saw will cut. This takes any guess work out of cutting compound angles. Simply mark the spot for the cut, set the miter and bevel, place the stock firmly against the fence, line up the mark with the laser line and make the cut. It couldn't be any easier.

7. Router

The last tool I recommend for every beginning woodworker is a quality router. While many routers available today offer two different bases (a stationary base and a plunge router base), for most beginners, a quality stationary base model will take care of quite a number of tasks, and can be mounted in a router table should you choose to invest in one down the line. Choose a model that is at least 2-HP and variable speed (as larger cutting bits should use slower speeds).

When a beginning woodworker is getting started, inevitibly one of the woodworking tools that they're most eager to get their hands on is a router. Why? Perhaps it is the wide range of shapes that can be placed onto an edge that can be quite impressive looking. Or maybe it's the fact that it's just a "really cool tool." Whatever the reason, most woodworkers take a lot of pride in their routers, and their ability to get the most out of them.

Stationary vs. Plunge Router: So, what should you look for when buying a router? Well, first of all, you need to know whether you need a stationary base or a plunge router.

What's the difference? Simply put, a stationary base router is one on which you set a specific depth, and that depth stays consistent while using the tool. A plunge router, on the other hand, allows you to plunge the router bit downward and into the stock, make the desired cut, and then lift the bit back out of the stock.

So, which one should you buy? Well, both, to be honest. A number of routers available today use the same router motor but offer two different bases, so you get the best of both worlds. This is a nice option, but not absolutely necessary.

Frankly, I prefer to find a good stationary base router first, and then save my pennies for a really good plunge router later, and convert the stationary base router for use in a router table.

Features to Focus on: When looking at routers, the most important feature to look for is the horsepower rating of the motor. I wouldn't buy any router that is less than 2-HP, as you'll need that power to push some bigger bits through stock.

Next, you'll want to spend a little extra to get one that has a variable speed control. Single-speed routers are fine as long as you're using small bits, but keep in mind: the larger the bit, the slower the cutting speed needs to be. Otherwise, you're likely to burn the bit.

Third, look at the collet diameter. That is to say, routers can accommodate either 1/4-inch diameter shaft bits or 1/2-inch diameter bits. 1/2-inch bits are more expensive and not nearly as readily available, but are much more stable and will route with less chatter than 1/4-inch bits. (Keep in mind, 1/4-inch bits will adapt to fit into a 1/2-inch collet, but not the other way around.)

Fourth, the router you purchase should have ergonomic handles that feel comfortable in your hands. Some routers have one large, pistol-grip style handle that you hold with your dominant hand, while your second hand wraps around the motor housing of the router to stabilize the unit. Other models offer two handles on opposite sides of the base. Choose whichever model feels comfortable in your hands.

No matter which handle style you prefer, be certain that the power switch is within easy reach when your hands are on the router. You don't want to remove your hand to turn off the motor.

On a Plunge router, the handles are on opposite sides of the base, and the depth gauge should be within easy reach of your thumb without removing your hand from the grip.

Advanced Features to Consider: One feature of top-of-the-line routers is an electronic feedback system that will sense the load and adjust the speed accordingly to try and keep the RPM's consistently in the selected range. A bit costly, but very nice feature to think about.

The Last Word: If I were building a new wood shop, my first router would be a well-built, minimum 2-HP, variable-speed stationary base router. If I found a model that I really liked that had an optional plunge base, I would probably consider it, but rather than spend a bunch more for that option, I'd buy the stationary model first, and save for a dedicated plunge router with electronic speed control. Then, I'd move the stationary router to a router table and use the plunge unit for regular routing.